Valve Repair

Hissing: It is normal for your valve to leak air (hiss) when the cap is off. The temper assist flap is only to allow you to top off the boat with less effort. You need the cap to seal the valve.
O-Ring Seal: The seal on the main valve is created by the rubber O-ring located on the Valve Cap. Often a leaking main valve is due to a missing or cracked O-ring. A spare is included in your repair kit.
Lost Cap: The fitting on your inflation bag works best as an emergency valve cap, you’ll need to screw a plastic bag into the threads to create the seal. Zipper Lube in the threads will assist with sealing.
Valve Weld Leaking; If the valve is leaking around the base where it seals to the boat, you’ll need to use Aquaseal®. Clean well. Work the glue down into the leak as well as you can, and all the way around the base of the stem.
Leaky Cap: For 2017 and newer valves, a leaking valve cap will almost always be caused by a missing or cracked O-ring. For 2016 and older valves, the valve cap threads can start to wear out over time. We recommend teflon plumber’s tape if available or a thin plastic bag in the field.

Clean and Check: Make sure the valve is clean of dirt and check again. Drip a bit of water in the tip and look for bubbles.
Replace: If you have a Spare Nozzle in your repair kit, cut the old one off. Clean the inside of the tube with an alcohol wipe. Unscrew the cap of the new nozzle, apply glue to the white collar and insert. DO NOT insert the white collar all the way into the valve stem as it will prevent the valve from closing, leave at least ⅛-inch (3mm) of the white collar showing.
Fold over and Tie: In an emergency, simply fold over the valve stem and wrap with string.
Valve Weld Leaking: If the valve is leaking around the base where it seals to the boat, you’ll need to use Aquaseal®. Clean well. Work the glue down into the leak as well as you can, and all the way around the base of the stem. Contact us for warranty repair.